“Everyone there wanted the same thing: to be reminded of what it felt like to be pulled toward his or her work, and to be unable to resist.”
– Mark Salzman, on the MacDowell Colony artists’ retreat
I’ve spent the last few weeks waxing poetical about Goa; now it’s time to get practical.
While I’ve truly enjoyed over-using the word ‘love’ when it comes to my little temporary home, writing about the greatest gift we can give ourselves, and taking you on a pilgrimage to Galgibaga Beach, the last thing I want to do before leaving here in two days (sob!) is tell you how to come and discover all this for yourself.
As such, my first iteration of this post involved just the second part of the title – how to live on a beach in India for $314 a month.
Because it can be done, trust me.
But I started to think a bit more about it, as there’s more to my love for Goa than just living seconds from the beach. It only hit me after a comment that my friend JoAnna, a fellow travel writer, left here last week:
I want to gift a writing retreat to myself someday, and this is very similar to what I hope it looks like.
Only then did I realize that is exactly what these last four weeks have been for me – a do-it-yourself writing retreat. Funnily enough, before leaving for India last summer I actually looked into a few around the country, but never followed up on what I found.
But the thing is, I didn’t need to. This was all here; it only took me carving out the time to come and get to work. Sometimes it’s just about giving ourselves permission to do that thing we most want to do, and not waiting for someone else to give it to us – i.e. an official writing retreat or fellowship.
Maybe you’ve always wanted to write a book or screenplay, start a research project or jewelry business, but haven’t had the chance to build up your stock. Here’s how to give yourself the time and space, in just four easy steps…what more could you ask for?
1. Get yourself to India.
…just be sure to apply for your visa first ($76 for a six-month tourist visa). The tourist season in Goa starts at the beginning of November and goes until the end of April. Come between June and August and you’ll most likely be blown away by the monsoon.
2. Rent a house.
I may be biased, but Colomb Bay in south Goa really is where it’s at. You’ve got Patnem and Palolem Beach each just a 5-10 minute walk away, both lined with outdoor restaurants and cafés, while Colomb Bay itself is quiet and inhabited mainly by local families and tourists here for the entire season.
Once you’re here, you can’t miss the “Room for rent” signs hanging all around the neighborhood, but if you are looking to line up something before you arrive, one option is to get in touch with my friend Povi, who manages a restaurant and hotel called Ocean Breeze.
Starting November 1st, Povi has a house for rent for 15,000 rupees a month ($275) that has one bedroom, one living room, one big kitchen (and he kept emphasizing “big”), hot water, landline internet, television and freezer. You can find Povi and Ocean Breeze on Facebook here, or give him a call at (+91) 098 23 776317.
Or, if you’re okay with something a bit more basic, a house like mine goes for 9,000 rupees a month ($160), with one bedroom, kitchenette, and bathroom. Just come to Colomb Bay and ask around!
3. Eat like a king (or queen).
You’ll need to stay fueled during your writing sessions; thankfully it couldn’t be cheaper (or more delicious) to do so. One option is to cook for yourself. On average, I’ve spent around 750 rupees a week ($14) on groceries, which includes toast and eggs for breakfast, rice and kurd for lunch, and pasta for dinner, plus a substantial supply of coffee (seriously, where would writers be without it?).
The last part of my budget (1,200 rupees a week, or $23) goes to sunset drinks, coffees and chocolate pancakes at the café where I go for internet, and the occasional meal out – which, let’s be honest, still hardly breaks the bank.
Just the other night, I ordered baked Camembert with honey and thyme served with crusty bread and crudités. Total cost? 220 rupees – or exactly $4. Not bad, ay?
4. Now get to work!
Because, after all, that’s what you’ve come here to do. It took me around a week to get used to having “nothing” on my schedule – indeed, when my friend Kim and I decided to meet to talk about our books one day, she got out her planner, looked at it for a minute, and said, “What about tomorrow?”
But in all seriousness, that’s the beauty of the month or three months or even six you give yourself here – as the MacDowell Colony says on their website, they provide the “time, space, and an inspiring environment to artists,” which is exactly what Goa has given me…and can give you, too.
So there you have it – a do-it-yourself writing retreat, and only four simple steps away. Adding basic accommodation and food costs together, essentially you’re looking at 600 rupees ($11) a day.
Isn’t that book you’ve always wanted to write worth eleven bucks a day?
For more ideas of what your dream writing retreat could look like in Goa, check out these posts:
- Hannah from Further Bound – Our lovely little house in Goa
- Kim from So Many Places – Welcome to our little home in Palolem, Goa
Sometimes you want things to be laid out for you – it’s easier and less of a hassle to start out with – but if you just put a little initial effort into setting up your own situation you usually get so much more – and for less money!
I know plenty of people who have stayed in guesthouses here in Thailand for one or two months, and while they’re still affordable, if they had just spent a couple more days looking they would have found apartments for less and that gave them a more ‘local’ experience.
These are the types of posts and personal accounts people need to help them realize it can be done!
Alana, I could not have said any of this better myself 🙂 I completely agree – finding your own place in a foreign country might seem like a bit of work, but Goa has proven to me that it works and is so worth it! And just in terms of writing retreats, I think one of the great things about established programs is definitely that it’s all there waiting for you…but sometimes you don’t have a project ready to work on, or don’t feel comfortable applying, so I’ve found this is a more laid-back alternative: getting to work on something you love without the pressure of having to have something to “show” for it at the end. Thanks for your comment!
I’ve been thinking about spending some time in India to become certified in yoga–perhaps when I finally make it, I can squeeze in a writing retreat as well! Love the sounds of ALL of this.
Hey Christine! It’s great to hear from you 🙂 I know of a few people here in Goa who have gotten their yoga certificate, so this is definitely a perfect place to make that happen – and get some writing done as well. If I can help with anything, please let me know! This has become one of my favorite little corners of India and I’m so grateful for the space it has given me to write. Hope all is well with you in NYC!
You make this sound delectable and easy. I might have to start investigating for my next sabbatical.
Margi! How are you? Well, I have to say it kinda is delectable and easy 🙂 I was amazed at how simple it was to set up a little life here…which is why I wanted to share a few details on how to go about it, so others can make it happen too! I think south Goa certainly has sabbatical written all over it.
PS – I just noticed the website you listed here…did you change the name of your blog?!
PPS – Can you believe this time last year Pueblo Ingles was just a month or so away?
If I wasn’t happily married, I’d go there in a heartbeat! That 1st pic is amaaaazing!!!
I love that, Andi 🙂 Well, I definitely hope you and your husband can still make it here one day – it is such a beautiful corner of India, and perfect for writing, too!!
It’s never the “living” part of going somewhere that’s expensive. It’s the GETTING there. It would have been more accurate financially to include the cost of airfare, don’t you think?
Hi there! Many thanks for stopping by and saying hello. You know, I was actually very close to quoting the cost of airfare, but unfortunately it’s hard to really pick one quote – I have readers in the US, UK, Australia, etc., so there would be quite a difference in price depending on where people are coming from and also what time of year they’re traveling. Hopefully they can look up the flight and just add that cost to the ones I’ve given here 🙂 Thanks again for your comment!
<3
I might need to add this to my 101 list. Thanks alot, Candace 😉
Yeahhh!! It is my life goal to ensure people’s 101 lists grow impossibly long 😉
Ahhhhh, heaven. Love this post Candace, it’s so helpful. Can’t wait to see what you write about our future retreat in Mexico 😉
Heaven, indeed! And yes…I can’t wait to see awaits us in Mexico either 😉 Hopefully lots of sun, more guacamole than we know what to do with, and book contracts??? PS – I’m so glad our paths crossed this morning – it was so fun to see both of you right as I said goodbye to lovely Colomb Bay. Safe travels today!
You are my inspiration. A friend of mine and I want to create our own writers retreat. We may just have to move to India for a month. Thanks!
Ah, DO IT! You will not regret it! Although it may be a little pricy to get to India itself, once you’re here life couldn’t be more affordable – and India is just an endless source of inspiration, especially for us travel writers 🙂 Hope you and your friend can make it here!!
I only got to experience a slice of Goa (while spending too much of that time in North Goa damn!). Palolem was beautiful and made us kick ourselves when we realized we should have spent our whole time there.
Such a great idea for an article. I’m sure many people out there just need a little information and a push to get going on something like this. In fact, I’d love to do the same myself!
Aw, that’s alright – North Goa still has its charms, I think 🙂 Just be sure to give yourself more time in south Goa on your next visit to India! Thanks as well for your comment – I know I myself didn’t realize just how easy it is to rent a place here, so I thought fellow writers (and artists, etc.) might be interested in it. Thanks again!
Candace, what a wonderful idea. Thank-you so much for sharing this. I have never been to India, but I hope to head East very soon. Your idea sounds quite perfect. Maybe, just maybe, I will have to try it out for myself.
Hey Jamie! Great to meet you here 🙂 That’s awesome to hear you’re headed east pretty soon – any idea where you’ll be visiting yet? And I’m glad you like the writing retreat idea! Those five weeks were some of my favorite weeks in India – the perfect balance between still experiencing the country but also getting to focus on my own projects – so I definitely recommend it.
Dear Candace,
Good evening! I’m very sorry to be writing about such an awkward question but I put “writers retreat” into google and you were one of the first websites to pop up. I am currently in school in New Jersey for Architectural Drafting and Design and my final project for the semester is to design a writers retreat for 10 people. Although I would love to put it in Goa as it seems like a very beautiful and relaxing place that you describe, we already have a site picked out in NJ. So, my question to you or anyone else that can help is what kind of things should a writers retreat include? What do you think you would like it to look like? Are there any special shapes that a writer would like better than others? What about colors? Should I stay away from some colors rather than others? I’m very sorry to be wasting your time, but any help would be greatly appreciated. 🙂
Thank you
Tim Salvini
Hello Tim! I’m so sorry to just get back to this comment – but I’m happy stumbling around Google sent you this way 🙂 I also got your email, which I will reply to later today – hope your project is going well so far!
Hi Candace, I found your blog through furtherbound.com. I’ve read all your India articles. They’re very good.. I particularly like this one and also another one with the four inspiring quotes. Keep doing what you’re doing! 🙂
I am actually about to head to India myself- Kerala specifically. Looks like you have a macbook… me too! I am assuming you got your internet through a data/cell provider. I’ve read of several people using that internet usb/dongle but I was unsure if it would sync well with a mac. What’ve you used and whats your experience been?
Hey Ashwin! Thanks so much for stopping by and saying hello – I’m glad to hear you enjoyed what you read here. That’s awesome you’re headed to Kerala pretty soon – it’s a beautiful part of the country! Yes, I definitely used an internet dongle in India and LOVED it – getting it kinda changed my life 🙂
I had a Tata Photon Plus dongle that I got from an actual Tata shop, but I believe you could get one from any normal mobile shop or stand, too. And the only times I really ever had any trouble with it were in Ooty (which is understandable) and for some reason Goa – it slowed down considerably there, and cost more to recharge. But if I remember correctly, it worked like a charm in Kerala! Good luck 🙂
You’re awesome Candace! Thanks! 🙂
No worries, Ashwin! Best of luck with the dongle and have a fantastic trip 🙂
Hi there Candace, how are you?? I was looking into booking my vaccinations this week so I can go to India in October, but I was skeptical as to where to go to press on with some writing and designing until I saw your page, and this sounds like perfection! How could I contact get in touch with your friend who owns the restaraunt over there?? I would love to have somewhere sorted to stay before I travelled!! X
Sent you an email, Jody! Hope all goes well in Goa 🙂 x
Love this blog, and love your sketches! I’ll be heading to Goa in november and was wondering if you knew if it’s easier or harder to find a place to rent at different times at the year. I’m worried that as it’s close to Christmas it’ll be hard to find a place to live. I want to get there early november so I’m there for 6 months in season… but may not get there till late november. Any help would be hugely appreciated! Thanks
Sent you an email, Lewis! Let me know if there’s anything else I can help with 🙂
Hi Candace
Your experience just sounds like the one I want to live the next couple of months .I plan to give myself time and away-space to finish off my first novel and was considering India. How is it to live there a couple of weeks as a woman on her own? Some terrible things towards women do unfortunately occur in India , I was wondering how you experienced this?
Annemie, Brussels
Hey Annemie, thanks so much for stopping by! It’s great to hear that you’re thinking of living in India for a little while to finish your book 🙂 In my own experience – and with several female friends I knew there – we all had a really positive experience. The nice thing about Goa is that it is quite westernized in many places, so hopefully you shouldn’t run into some of the issues that you might in other parts of the country. I would still be careful and aware, but things are generally a little more relaxed there. Please let me know if there’s anything else I can help with, and feel free to send me an email at [email protected] as well!
I am so happy I found this article. Thank you for taking the time to write and share this. I especially enjoyed the pictures.
I was thinking about taking some time out to write in India and this has given me some great ideas to work with : )
That’s awesome to hear, Kim! I loved my little writing retreat in Goa and can’t recommend it enough to fellow writers – definitely let me know if you end up heading to India 🙂
What a lovely post! It sounds like you had a wonderful time in Goa. Thanks so much for posting this. You write really beautifully and make me feel like I am there with you – feeling the ocean breeze and the magic of Goa wash over me! After a 2 month trip around India ( where 1 week was spent in Goa) I have been dreaming about returning and living in Goa but after reading this you have given me the inspiration (and practical tips) to believe that lviing in Goa is more than just a dream and less expensive than you would think! Hopefully Nov should see me back in amazing India! So is it really that easy just to show up and look around for a cheap house to rent? And are there any other areas you would recommend to settle?
I’m so glad you enjoyed the post, Anna! And that you’ll hopefully be heading back to India later this year 🙂 While I didn’t arrive in Goa until February, I believe November is actually a perfect time to get there, and I can’t imagine you’ll have any trouble at all just showing up and finding a house! Especially in the area I lived – Colomb Bay – you’ll either just see signs up saying ‘house for rent,’ or you could start by asking around at some of the cafes and restaurants. Another friend just rented a place from Povi this spring, and it worked out beautifully for her!
In terms of other areas to settle, do you mean Goa or elsewhere? I didn’t see too many other regions of Goa while I was there, but some of my other favorite corners of India are places such as Kerala, Jaisalmer, and Dharamsala. I would say the most important thing is to decide what kind of landscape and vibe you’d like to live in! If you’re looking for a relaxed beach scene, Goa is definitely the way to go, but there are some beautiful hill stations in the Himalayas that I’m sure would be lovely to live in as well 🙂 Keep me posted on what you decide, and please let me know if I can help with anything else!
This has made my year! I plan on being there between 2 and 5 months, and while I definitely want solitude to focus and write, I’d also like to make some friends. I’ve read different posts, some saying it’s very difficult. I was hoping to stay in beautiful, peaceful place and surround myself with like minded creatives. Is that Goa!? Thank you for your inspiration!!!