“Why do two colors, put one next to the other, sing? Can one really explain this? No. Just as one can never learn how to paint.”

— Pablo Picasso

The Charminar monument in Hyderabad

If Picasso’s right, and two colors can sing, then the spectrum of shops, stalls, and saris in the Lad Bazar of Hyderabad can be called nothing less than a chorus.

I walked the bazaar’s narrow streets for the first time last week, stopping over on my way south to Chennai. Charminar, a beautifully carved monument notable for its four towering minarets, was built in 1591 by the sultan Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, to commemorate moving the capital of his kingdom to the city from Golkanda.

Today, Charminar’s elegant arches and domes mark one of the central shopping hubs of Hyderabad, as just to its right begins the marketplace of the Lad Bazar. The shops don’t really open up until late morning, so I had the chance to watch the bazaar wake up, wandering past salesmen dusting their wares, food vendors wheeling in their carts of coconuts and bananas, and even a man on a three-wheeled bicycle, on the back of which was balanced a cage of thirty huddling chickens.

Charminar was a wonderland of patterns and colors, one that I was more than happy to get lost in. Here are a few of my favorite shots:

Picture-perfect pearls looped around sellers’ wrists and fingers like Christmas garland.

Pearls for sale in Charminar, Hyderabad

Pearls for sale in Charminar, Hyderabad

Bright gold earrings and necklaces glittering in the morning sunlight.

Gold jewelry in Charminar, Hyderabad

Shopping for gold in Charminar, Hyderabad

Bangles, bangles, bangles. Sold on stands, behind glass cases, in spirals on carts. No end to these sparkling rings…

Bangles in Charminar, Hyderabad

Bangles in Charminar, Hyderabad

Bangles in Charminar, Hyderabad

 Bangles in Charminar, Hyderabad

With jewel and plume in place, each pagdi (turban) sits awaiting its prince…or groom.

Turbans in Charminar, Hyderabad

Turbans in Charminar, Hyderabad

Turbans in Charminar, Hyderabad

From fabric to ribbons, rolls of material for saris dazzle passers-by, daring you not to buy your own.

Saris in Charminar, Hyderabad

Saris in Charminar, Hyderabad

Saris in Charminar, Hyderabad

12 Comments

  • One of my favourite markets to visit is actually a wet market on my way home from work – I love to see all the little old Korean ladies sitting amidst giant piles of produce, shops selling herbs and roots and strange packets of traditional medicine, stands with rice cakes and panchan (Korean side-dishes), and most of all, I love to watch the fruits and vegetables change with the seasons. Maybe not as colourful as this market, but still crazy interesting 😉

    • Naomi, that market sounds divine. Have you blogged about it on your site? Will have to go check after I write this 🙂 It sounds like such a fascinating blend of characters and customs…I will definitely have to visit myself one day. Thanks for saying hello and hope all is well with you!

  • Do I need to put $$ in your checking account? I mean, “Hello Christmas in America!” I saw several bangles, fabric, hmmm….should I go on? 🙂

    My favorite market or bazaar…well, I’ve not been many places but I would have to say San Gimignano, Italy. Their exquisite pottery and Italian leather adorned the winding roads. Plus, gelato to eat while you browse! 🙂

    • Haha! Lucky for you, my pounds go a loong way here when it comes to Christmas shopping 🙂 Just hope I’ll have a bag (or bags) big enough to carry it all home…that should be fun! Okay, I just googled San Gimignano, and how did I not know you went there? That looks gorgeous! What a lovely looking place, and I can only imagine how cool the market would’ve been there…let’s go back one day, please?

  • That’s beautiful write up about charminar. Just last week, i had been there with my friends. No matter how many times you visit that place, each visit gives you a different experience. Haven’t you visited Golconda ? If you plan to visit Hyderabad again, ping me and i’ll be happy to show you around.

    • Hi, Sanjay! Thanks so much for your comment. I only visited Charminar a couple of times, but I can definitely understand what you’re saying–markets like that have a way of always changing and surprising you 🙂 I haven’t been to Golconda yet, actually! I’m still headed further south in Tamil Nadu, but if I’m back that way, I’ll definitely let you know. Thanks again for saying hello!

  • i’m in colour overload. i’d be quite happy surrounded by that.

    speaking of bangles – do you wear them? i bought a bunch of sparkling ones in paris that i just can’t seem to wear. would you be interested?

    • I definitely wear them! Have about ten or so on my wrist as I type this 🙂 Not sure how long they’ll last back in London, though (I imagine having to pull sweaters and heavy coats over them every day might get old, haha). If you really don’t want yours, I’d love them! (Good to know you don’t wear them: I’ll make sure not to pick you up some from here…)

  • Happy to know that you enjoyed in Hyderabad!
    Reminds me of my 60 day internship at ISB, where I always found hard to fetch some time to view the beauty of Hyderabad!
    But I guess you missed out on a significant number places, Golconda being one of them for sure.
    Hope to see you some day.
    Take care and have fun! 🙂

    • Hey Nirmit! Great to hear from you 🙂 I actually had a fantastic time in Hyderbad–I didn’t have a huge reason for going there, as I was mainly passing through onto Chennai–but I definitely did not expect to enjoy the city so much. The lively Lad Bazar, the interesting history and Islamic influence, and all the yummy Hyderbadi food surprised me lots, to say the least! *Sigh* yes, I’m having to get quite used to missing out here in India…but rather than get too depressed by it, I’ve decided this will just be the first trip of many, and I have to leave a few things to see when I’m back again 🙂 I hope you’re well and that the studies are going okay…Take care!

  • Hey Candace,

    So good to hear you had so much fun out there! I’ll be visiting Hyderabad coming Friday and I’ve never been so excited! Ur lovely writeup has indeed added an extra blend of charm and fascination towards the Bangle bazaar to my excitement! I’m planning to loll around the Ramoji Film City and Golkonda forts as well!
    I’m sure I’ll again have loads to write about the city once i come back! Till then, take care. 🙂

    • I’m so glad you’ll be heading to Hyderabad soon, Esha! And I’m equally happy to hear I could add to your excitement 🙂 Although I only spent a couple of days there, I loved my time in the city and can’t wait to hear what you think of it. Stay safe and have fun! (And please do get in touch after your trip, I’d love to hear about it.)

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