What’s that? You’ve royally messed up your Indian travel plans and given yourself an impossible 24 hours to experience Goa–one of the country’s most popular states?
Not to fear–yours truly did just the same and has lived to tell the tale of her race through the famed beaches and Portuguese relics that make Goa what is. Here’s how you can do the same:
Reach Patnem Beach at night, when lanterns light the path like luminaries.
Rather than attempt the beach party scene up north, decide on a southern spot called Patnem–which happens to be a convenient fifteen minutes from Canacona rail station. This decision is totally justified the minute you step on the beach.
As darkened waves shhh against the shore, you’re suddenly mesmerised by the candles and lanterns set out by open-air restaurants, and the sound of bluesy folk singing played live from the Namaste Café.
To make the most of your beach hut, rise with the sun [kind of].
At Micky’s Huts and Restaurant, a lovely chap named Gotham (“Like Batman,” he tells you) shows you to your beach hut. But because you’ve opted for basic (i.e. no power) you can’t actually see where you’re spending the night. In the morning, push back your mosquito net, throw open the windows, and revel in the charming blue bungalow you find yourself in, tucked back from the beach in a towering grove of coconut trees.
Two hours on the beach are enough to see why others never leave.
Gone are the restaurant tables and candles from last night–in their place are row after row of chaise lounges, all sheltered by neat thatched umbrellas. Pretend that laying at 9am is totally what everyone does at the beach, and rejoice when the sun actually grows warm at ten. When the clock strikes eleven, pack up your bags and hit the bus stand, where shopkeepers don’t help things by asking, “Leaving so soon, madam?”
In Old Goa, set a record for visiting five churches in two hours.
Four hours and three bus rides later find you far from the serene southern beaches and right in the heart of Old Goa. From the Sé Cathedral–the largest church in Asia–to the crumbling ruins of the St. Augustine Monastery, it’s a race against the sun to see what you can of Goa’s colonial heritage.
Most of the cathedrals date from the 17th century, when the Portuguese first arrived–and they didn’t leave until 1961, when India decided Goa should join the rest of the country in achieving independence.
Spend your last morning sprinting around Panjim’s Portuguese quarter.
So what if your train for Mumbai leaves in two hours? Put on your running shoes and take in what you can of Sao Tome, the old Portuguese quarter in Panjim.
Many of the streets in this state capital are still lined with things more likely to be found in Europe: wrought-iron balconies, brightly painted houses and the blue and white tiles that are just so Portuguese.
Ohhh, how I want to go!!
Surprisingly, the only city I clearly remember as just having 24 hours to visit is another old Portuguese colony – Macau!
That’s awesome! When were you in Macau? I visited there back in 2009–and not for much longer than 24 hours 🙂 Just a short weekend trip on the way back to NZ. It’s an interesting island, isn’t it? I loved the old Portuguese relics, and yet how much of a part of China it is today. And yes…you must go to Goa! 🙂
Shame on you! You must return.
I stayed at Palolem in the late ’90s and walked over to Patnem which was so undeveloped. Only two accommodation sites on a barren beach. How things change. Mind you I was told that Palolem had only 5 beach shacks the year before and now there were 30+.
Nice to see a photo of Hotel Venite in old Panjim. Good food there. But avoid Honeybee across the street. Serious hangover that day! The local grog, Feni (made from the innocent cashew nut), gives you an instant headache.
Haha I know, I know…poor travel planning on my part, but at least I got a brief taste of the Goan lifestyle. How bizarre to think of Patnem as as barren beach…definitely not so now! But in my opinion, it’s been built up very tastefully…not huge hotels, just small beach huts that let the environment still be itself. And yes–Hotel Venite did look inviting. Unfortunately my hotel room that night was exorbitant, so I couldn’t eat out…but next time I’m in Panjim, I’ll have to check it out! Thanks for saying hello 🙂
I’ve been to places all over India – but surprisingly, never been to Goa! Would love to visit.. and spend more than 24 hours there! 🙂
What are you waiting for?! Haha. Goa actually was beautiful…I was a bit wary on arrival, as it’s such a big tourist and traveler spot–but it didn’t take long to see what all the hype is about. You’ll have to make sure you swing down south on your next visit here 🙂
looks breathtaking! I had 24 hours in two spurts back in ’08 to explore Paris. It’s when I fell in love and knew i had to go back.
Thanks, Jen! Ah, so it was love at first sight for you and Paris? Sometimes I almost prefer a short amount of time in a place, you know? It’s such a challenge to see what you can, but those brief impressions can be lasting ones. (Not sure if I told you that when flying to London last year, I purposely booked an Air Canada flight that gave me a 12-hour layover in Toronto…so far my only taste of the country, but enough to want to go back for more 🙂
You did a lot in 24 hrs! I spent three days there and I don’t think I took as many of the historic sights. The fastest I’ve ever visited a place was 11 hrs in Zurich – thankfully it’s a very walkable city. 🙂
Thanks, Audrey! It was definitely a whirlwind trip, and I’d love to take my time through the state next time I’m there 🙂 When were you in Goa? Did you have a favorite spot or beach? And yes–I hear you on the 11 hours. I had a 12-hour stopover in Toronto once, and tried to make the most of it. It’s always amazing how much you can fit in when you’re on a tight schedule, isn’t it? Thanks for saying hello!